How to Knit the “Robin” Baby Blanket [Free Video Tutorial & Written Pattern!]
***You can purchase an INEXPENSIVE AD-FREE PDF of this pattern on Ravelry HERE or Etsy HERE***
In blanket design terms, the Robin Baby Blanket is the younger cousin of my Emma Baby Blanket. The design uses the same techniques but in a shorter repeat. The result is a super cosy, super cuddly blanket with bags of texture and a nice, short 8 row repeat.
As this blanket uses just knit and purl stitches, its a great project for anyone who has mastered the basic stitches and wants to move onto a larger project. I’m a firm believer in creating designs that are accessible to less experienced knitters as well as more confident ones. Projects don’t have to be full of lacework or cables to be beautiful and full of texture. It never fails to impress me how much variation you can get simply by using 2 different stitches.
yarn and sizing tips & tricks
I’ve chosen DK (aka Double Knitting, Light Worsted, 3 Weight) yarn for this project, but don’t let that stop you from knitting it in your own preferred weight of yarn. You will just need to adjust your cast on and number of repeats you work to accommodate the change in weight of yarn.
My instructions produce a Blanket approximately 60cm x 80cm, but for those of you wanting to adjust this size, it can easily be done using the pattern multiple of 10+4 for the middle textured panel, and an additional 18 stitches (9 for each side) for the garter stitch edging.
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Materials Needed
- 4mm Circular Needs (to recreate this blanket 120cm is a perfect length)
- 400g of DK Yarn – I used Stylecraft Bellissima in Papaya Punch
- Scissors & Tapestry Needle for sewing in ends
- 2 Stitch Markers
written pattern
Stiches Used
- k – knit
- p – purl
- sl1pwyf – slip one purlwise with yarn in front.
- Pm – place marker
- Sm – slip marker
bottom garter border
Foundation Row: Cast on 132 Stitches.
Knit 15 rows as follows: K until final stitch, sl1pwyf
main pattern repeat
Row 1: k9, pm, k until 9 stitches remain, pm, k8, sl1pwyif
Row 2: k9, sm, p4, *k6, p4* repeat from *to* until next marker, sm, k8, sl1pwyif
Row 3: k9, sm, k until 9 stitches remain, sm, k8, sl1pwyif
Row 4: k9, sm, p4, *k6, p4* repeat from *to* until next marker, sm, k8, sl1pwyif
Row 5: k9, sm, k until 9 stitches remain, sm, k8, sl1pwyif
Row 6: k9, sm, k5, p4, *k6, p4* repeat from *to* until 5 stitches before 2nd marker, k5, sm, k8, sl1pwyif
Row 7: k9, sm, k until 9 stitches remain, sm, k8, sl1pwyif
Row 8: k9, sm, k5, p4, *k6, p4* repeat from *to* until 5 stitches before 2nd marker, k5, sm, k8, sl1pwyif
Repeat Rows 1-8 a total of 31 times (or until project is 6cm shorter than desired length).
Before beginning top edging, work rows 1-4 from the pattern repeat and then move on to top edge instructions.
top garter border
Knit 16 rows as follows: K until final stitch, sl1pwyf.
Final row (Row 17) Cast off knit wise with right side facing.
Love your patterns..
I am not sure about increasing the stitches, I would like to leave the edges with the orginal stitches. Would it be 10 + 4 and no added border sts.
Hi,
If you don’t want a border at all then you would increase in that way, and then not add the 18 border stitches. You would also not work the top and bottom garter stitch borders.
Hope that helps
Laurelin
An excellent tutorial. Very clear and informative and extremely easy to follow for a beginner.
Thank you so much. As a pensioner patterns are vey expensive so it is wonderful to have access
to these tutorials. I hope to knit one for each of my grandchildren (6) for their first baby. I hope I will be around to see it, again thank you xx